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Nestled in the heart of Lake Nicaragua, Ometepe is a hidden gem in Central America. This tropical island, formed by two volcanoes, offers a unique blend of natural beauty, rich culture, and adventurous activities. If you’re seeking an off-the-beaten-path destination, Ometepe is the perfect place to immerse yourself in nature and local life. First time visitors to Ometepe however come with certain expectations which can be quickly dashed upon arrival. This first timer’s guide to exploring Ometepe aims to provide you with some key information to ensure that you experience an adventure in paradise. After all, no one wants to be featured on the next ‘Holidays from Hell’.
Ometepe challenges
The two primary hurdles for first-time adventurers to Ometepe are:
- how to get to Ometepe
- and the best way to get around Ometepe based on the condition of the roads
Getting to Ometepe
Step one – Rivas to San Jorge
To get to Ometepe, you need to make your way to Rivas which is a town on the Pan-American highway. Any bus that connects Managua and Costa Rica should stop in Rivas. From there, it is a short 3km drive to the port of San Jorge. As you descend from the bus, you will not be short of offers to get you to the coast. We agreed $5 for a ‘taxi’ driver (note, this car was barely recognisable as a functioning vehicle) to drop us at the port. It was a short drive to the ferry port that finished with a drive along a black sandy beach lined with deserted restaurants.
Step two – ferry to Ometepe
From San Jorge you will take a ferry to Ometepe. A big iron gate guards the San Jorge port and foreigners must pay a $1 entrance fee.
Once inside the port, head to the ticket booth to purchase your ferry tickets. These cost just C$100 (about £1 each) for the journey to the island. They do not allocate a specific boat or destination on Ometepe be careful when boarding as there are two ports on the island.
Ports on Ometepe
One is in the capital of Moyogalpa and the other is in San Jose. Unless you have pre-arranged transport from San Jose you will want to get on a ferry to Moyogalpa as this is where all the rental agencies are located.
Although your lodging can arrange for rental outfits to come to your accommodation, it seems silly to pay $20 – $25 for a transfer if you plan to rent a vehicle.
Note, if you do jump on the wrong ferry it will cost between $5 and $10 to get a car back into Moyogalpa. That car may be a taxi but more likely it is a entrepreneurial local looking to make a few quid.
Onboard the ferry to Ometepe
Once aboard the ferry, stow away your phone and immerse yourself in the captivating scenery. Approaching Ometepe from the mainland, it’s a challenge to spot any traces of human habitation. Instead, your gaze is drawn to two majestic peaks emerging from the verdant jungle coastline, often crowned by swirling clouds. Ometepe essentially comprises two volcanoes encircled by a coastal strip of land. To the left, stands Conception, a towering cone (1610 meters high), accompanied by its smaller sibling to the right, Maderas (1394 meters high).
As we draw nearer to the shore, we can see dense jungle covers the slopes and base of Conception. Modest dwellings peek out from beneath the lush canopy, offering a glimpse of civilization. Yet, the prevailing impression is one of having stepped back in time to a bygone era.
Getting around Ometepe
Based on the insightful recommendations from Along Dusty Roads in their Ometepe travel guides, we made a last-minute decision to rent an ATV. This turned out to be an incredibly wise choice. Not only is public transportation sparse on the island, but the condition of the roads leaves much to be desired. Many of the routes are unpaved, riddled with deep potholes, and home to various other hazards.
Although distances aren’t great, travel is leisurely as you navigate a variety of obstacles. Rain gullies, road maintenance crews, wandering livestock, pigs, dogs, and kids on bicycles all meander onto the road without a second thought. When it rains, potholes transform into enormous puddles, drainage ditches become rushing fjords, and kids revel in a ‘rain day’.
However, there is progress. Even in the last 18 months, the paved road has advanced. It now extends from Moyogalpa almost all the way to Santa Maria on the route to Merida. Note, however there is only a dusty, pot-holed track between Altagracia in the North and Myolgalpa if you are travelling anti-clockwise around the island. The bulk of the Maderas island between Merida and Punta Gorda is also a dirt track at the time of writing.
Car or ATV on Ometepe?
We opted for an ATV for two reasons;
- We thought it would be more fun
- It was cheaper
However in rainy season you may prefer a car. When it rains in Ometepe it pours, although personally I think that is part of the fun.
Hiring an ATV
For a daily rate of $55, we rented an ATV from Green Expeditions. With careful strapping, we managed to attach two large 80-liter backpacks and two day packs to the grates on the ATV. This means that renting an ATV can be a viable alternative to renting a car, especially considering the steep price of $90 per day for a car rental.
Renting the ATV was hassle-free. The rental representative met us at the port, confirmed that we had a license (although he didn’t ask for proof), and took down our passport numbers. It’s worth noting that payment must be made in cash, preferably in dollars (including the deposit). We didn’t have enough dollars to cover both the deposit and the rental fee, so the representative took a higher deposit that matched the rental cost when we returned the ATV. The company representative provided us with straps to secure our baggage, handed over the key, and disappeared.
Why hire an ATV
I can’t stress enough how worthwhile it is to rent an ATV on Ometepe. Even if it’s the only thing you do on the island, I highly recommend it. My fondest memories of Ometepe involve feeling the sun on my skin and the wind in my hair, as we navigated the dusty island roads.
The road that encircles the island is an adventurer’s dream, offering a vivid snapshot of local life. Farmers skillfully herd their cows on horseback, chickens dart across the road, squawking as they dodge traffic, and dogs casually cross your path. Locals sit in rocking chairs on their porches, engaged in lively conversations, or you might catch them swaying in hammocks while kids enthusiastically wave at occasional passersby.
Other than kayaking the Rio Istian and heading to Agua De Ojo, both of which were amazing, we spent our time on Ometepe pottering around on the ATV. In this way, we feel we experienced an intimate insight into island culture.
For this reason, I have not provided an itinerary for Ometepe. Along Dusty Roads have instead written a fabulous blog called called ’13 Wonderful Things to do in Ometepe‘ which I suggest you visit for inspiration.
Instead, I plan to leave you with a few additional things to be aware of when you visit Ometepe so you can prepare accordingly.
5 top tips for a first time visitor to Ometepe
Take plenty of cash
Although some places will accept credit cards, outside of Moyogalpa many places insist on cash. Furthermore, those establishments that do accept cards will add a 6% supplement for card payments that may hurt your budget.
Some accommodations and many of the tour operators will insist on cash and most ATMs are in Moyogalpa. You can find infrequent ATMs around the island but many did not work properly. You may also have restrictions on the amount you can withdraw each day. Whilst this is usually sufficient to pay for most day to day costs, it became an issue for us when we needed to pay for both the ATV and our accommodation with cash.
Dollars or Cordobas?
Most tourist operations seem to quote prices in $ but will accept Cordobas whilst everything else typically requires payment in Cordoba. You will therefore need both unless you plan to remain solely in your accommocation.
Organise transport
As mentioned above, it is essential to think about some sort of transport if you plan to stay anywhere other than Moyogalpa.
Make sure you jump on the correct ferry
Again, this is just a reminder that there are two ferries. Most head to Moyogalpa and whilst San Jose is nearer to the Maderas part of the island, if you need to pick up money, goods or rental vehicles, you need to head to the capital.
Lack of tourist infrastructure
Ometepe is a rustic island blessed with natural treasures and stunning views on clear days. It has a burgeoning tourist scene so do not anticipate an abundance of restaurants and bars on the island. Many village amenities are essentially extensions of private residences. You’ll come across occasional bars and restaurants, but the largest concentration of tourist facilities are in Balgue, Santo Domingo, and Moyogalpa.
Additionally, a number of places close early, some as early as 7 pm. If you are lucky, perhaps around 9 pm. So, if you choose a more remote location as your base, prepare to embrace the unhurried rhythm of island life. If you want access to more choices, it is probably best to select one of the above locations as your base. We stayed in Merida which had very little to offer as dining options outside our lodging.
Accommodation choices
There are few large, hotel-style accommodations. Most choices lean towards intimate boutique establishments or homestay arrangements. In the case of the latter, families reside on the premises and offer rooms either within their home or in nearby structures.
While a handful of hotels provide a range of amenities, only a few feature swimming pools. Ever considered a homestay in the jungle?
Our jungle homestay
We stayed at Jungle in Merida, which cost £97 for three nights, including breakfast. You can expect stunning views of Lake Nicaragua and the occasional sight of Conception Volcano.
The family that owns and operates Jungle in Merida resides on-site with their children and are eager to share their wealth of knowledge about Ometepe and Nicaragua. This personal interaction afforded us invaluable insights into Nicaraguan and Ometepen history.
Ometepe; the hidden gem of Nicaragua
Although Ometepe can be a challenge, it offers a unique blend of nature, culture and adventure. This island, offers an escape from the ordinary, It presents a captivating fusion of untamed landscapes, vibrant traditions, and thrilling experiences.
While the island’s facilities may be more modest than those of bustling tourist hubs, this simplicity allows for a deeper connection with the local way of life. From encounters with friendly locals to the serenity of a jungle homestay, Ometepe offers a genuine and enriching cultural experience.
The journey to Ometepe may require a bit of planning, but the rewards are boundless. With each passing day, the island’s serene charm and captivating scenery leave an indelible mark on the adventurous soul. Ometepe offers an invitation to leave tourist hotspots and immerse yourself in a world where nature, history, and culture converge in perfect harmony.
